Sushi Azabu is a hidden restaurant, in the manner of Freemans and La Esquina. These hideaways are always catnip for ever-competitive New Yorkers, who relish inside tips and inside tracks that friends and colleagues don’t have. It’s unmarked, of course. To find it you enter an unremarkable-looking multi-ethnic restaurant named the Greenwich Grill, tell the host just inside that you’re sushi-bound, and then wait for a server communicating with unseen co-conspirators via a headset to escort you to a staircase off the Greenwich Grill’s dining room. Down the steps you go to a dark subterranean lair with a blond wood sushi bar, three enormous circular booths, a pebbled floor that makes you feel unsteady as you walk across it and a ceiling of tightly clustered, rounded pipes of bamboo.
Restaurants - Sushi as an Everyday Luxury - Review - NYTimes.com
